Mohammad Hanief
Amid the snow-clad peaks, saffron fields, and serene valleys of Kashmir, there lies a culinary tradition as rich and layered as the culture itself — the legendary Wazwan. More than just a meal, Wazwan is an immersive cultural experience, a celebration of identity, and a testament to centuries-old culinary craftsmanship. Whether served at a wedding, festival, or state banquet, Wazwan is not simply eaten — it is revered.
The word Wazwan combines two Kashmiri words: Waza, the master chef, and wan, meaning shop or place. Historically, this multi-course feast was a privilege of royalty and nobility, reserved for the courts of kings and noble families. Over time, it evolved into a central component of Kashmiri weddings and large gatherings, becoming a symbol of celebration and hospitality.
A full-fledged Wazwan typically includes up to 36 meticulously prepared dishes, almost all of which are meat-based, particularly mutton. Despite the region’s agricultural abundance, Wazwan focuses heavily on slow-cooked meat, complex spice blends, and culinary precision.
Before the first morsel is consumed, a series of rituals affirm the social and cultural sanctity of the Wazwan. Guests are seated cross-legged on floor cushions around a dastarkhwan (a cloth spread over the floor). A traditional copper basin called the Tash Naer is passed around for hand-washing — a symbol of both hygiene and respect.
Then comes the Trami, a large engraved copper platter that serves as the communal dining dish for a group of four. The sight of the Trami, heaped with aromatic rice and meat dishes, is both overwhelming and inviting.
At the core of Wazwan are signature dishes, each representing a chapter in Kashmir’s gastronomic narrative. The first course typically includes delicacies such as:
Tabak Maaz – Ribs of lamb simmered in yogurt and spices, then fried to a crisp.
Seekh Kebab – Minced mutton skewers, grilled to perfection.
Rogan Josh – A fiery red lamb curry, its colour derived from Kashmiri chilies rather than excessive heat.
Methi Maaz – Offal cooked with dried fenugreek leaves, offering a robust, earthy flavour.
And then come the stars of the Wazwan — Rista and Gushtaba.
Rista consists of finely pounded meatballs cooked in a vibrant red gravy flavoured with saffron and other indigenous spices. Gushtaba, often served as the final meat course, features larger meatballs immersed in a delicate yoghurt-based sauce. Its placement at the end of the meal is symbolic — a sign of culinary culmination.
Vegetarian dishes like Dum Aloo and Haak (collard greens) are occasionally included, especially in modern adaptations. However, the original Wazwan remains unapologetically carnivorous.
The Unsung Heroes: The Wazas
The making of a Wazwan is a labour of love that can stretch over 24 hours. The Waza, the traditional chef, is not just a cook but a custodian of heritage. Working under open skies in a makeshift kitchen known as the Vurabal, the Wazas and their apprentices stir massive cauldrons, hand-pound meat with wooden mallets, and measure spices by instinct, not recipe books.
Becoming a Waza is no casual affair. It is a hereditary profession, passed down through generations. Apprentices begin training young, often under the guidance of fathers and uncles. The culinary education is both rigorous and sacred — after all, they’re carrying forward a tradition that defines Kashmir’s cultural fabric.
While Wazwan remains deeply rooted in tradition, it has also adapted to contemporary tastes and lifestyles. In urban Kashmir, restaurants specializing in Wazwan have emerged, offering scaled-down versions of the feast to locals and tourists alike. Outside Kashmir, particularly in cities with significant Kashmiri diaspora — Delhi, Mumbai, and even parts of the Gulf — Wazwan is served at community functions, keeping the tradition alive far from home.
Moreover, with evolving dietary preferences and health consciousness, modern chefs have begun experimenting with leaner meats, plant-based alternatives, and smaller portion sizes, while trying to retain the essence of Wazwan. However, purists argue that tampering with the original is akin to altering a sacred ritual.
In recent years, Wazwan has also found its way into the realm of cultural diplomacy. State banquets in Jammu & Kashmir hosted for dignitaries, ambassadors, and high-ranking officials often feature a curated Wazwan as the centrepiece — a flavorful way of introducing Kashmir’s warmth and sophistication to the world.
The cuisine has even become a point of pride at food festivals and international culinary expos. As one chef remarked at a festival in Dubai, “Wazwan is our edible signature — a way to say who we are without words.”
While Wazwan is revered for its richness, it has not escaped criticism. The environmental impact of excessive meat consumption, food waste at large events, and the pressure it places on families of modest means during weddings are growing concerns. A typical wedding Wazwan can cost upwards of around one lakh solely on food preparation.
To address these challenges, some community leaders and NGOs in Kashmir have advocated for simplified Wazwans or the inclusion of vegetarian courses to reduce pressure on both the environment and the hosts. However, social expectations around Wazwan remain high, and change has been slow.
In Kashmir, where traditions are tightly woven into daily life, Wazwan is more than just a culinary indulgence. It is a performance, a heritage, a communal ritual, and for many, a matter of pride. To partake in Wazwan is not only to taste Kashmir but to understand it — its history, its people, and its indomitable spirit.
As Kashmir steps cautiously into modernity, Wazwan stands as a testament to the region’s ability to preserve the essence of its traditions while adapting to the times. Whether served at an opulent wedding or a modest gathering, the Wazwan continues to be the heart of Kashmiri hospitality — sumptuous, soulful, and unforgettable.
The author can be reached at m.hanief@gmail.com
X/Twitter: @haniefmha
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